In my piano piece both staves have bar numbers. Can I make it show only one bar number?
It is probably an xml import that has created two single staff pianos? You can check in Setup.
I created it fresh in Dorico.
Real bar numbers or the “virtual” ones above every bar in every staff?
Yes, the virtual ones.
They are not real, you can specify the real bar numbers in Layout Options > Bar Numbers and hide the virtual ones in menu View > Bar Numbers
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I agree that it would be nicer (or less obtrusive) to have the virtual bar numbers only in the topmost visible stave.
An alternative is showing the System Track (Alt-T)
Yes, but for that you would need to scroll to the top each time.