Before you do why not look at Rain Computers? Google it then look to bottom of page for UK site.They could probably do a bespoke machine for this sort of dosh with all the tweaks and back up you need.Run by the guy who reviews music pcs for sound on sound.Guess what? You can talk to them on various options and compatibility issues with any audio interfaces etc beforehand too.Recommended.
I would recommend DARC http://www.directresolutions.co.uk/ I think that they have much better solutions than Rain (and yes, I have bought from Rain in the past).
if in the UK
the best option in the UK by far…
What is your “locally”, then? Reason not to buy HP is simple: you may get better bang for your $$$/€€€/£££/¥¥¥/₣₣₣/¤¤¤ by choosing something else.
I wouldn’t recommend HP, from my experience they haven’t been very reliable. My HP laptop died a couple years after use, while my Sony one has been fine for years.
There’s not really a definite answer to that. Been using my HP Elitebook with Cubase for 3 years now, without a glitch. (other than those caused by myself )
As an IT professional who has built a DAW or two, the brand is less important than the actual components inside. I build my own PC in such a scenario after evaluating what pre-built DAWs from Guitar Center and Sweetwater look like and what home theatre PCs look like.
I’d rather have a very quiet computer above all else, so no laptops with little fans below hands for me.
- Intel processors are superior to AMD in recent years
- I prefer Seagate hard drives. I don’t mess with SSD, but they certainly are quieter. I run a minimum of 2 drives–one for data, one for OS and programs.
- I’m impartial to RAM, but I use Crucial typically or anything with decent ratings from NewEgg. The RAM’s speed should match or exceed the CPU bus speed, or you’re throwing your money away.
- The power supply must be at least 80% efficient with only one extra quiet fan, preferably on the inside facing side rather than facing outside of the case.
- The only brand that matters is the who makes the motherboard. Some are cheaply made and will short-circuit themselves eventually while the good ones, like Gigabyte, will last much longer.
- No fans smaller than 80mm allow anywhere in the PC, period! Preferably fans are around 120mm to 160mm with good ball bearings.
- CPU fan must be able to run in its factory silent mode (i.e. ~35 db. or less)
- Further dampening could be recommended, like a suspending the drives on rubber screws, soft rubber pads for the bottom of the case, any internal sound dampening mats.
- If you buy from HP, you don’t have control like this, but HP is a very solid brand. We use them at work.
- Computers are not built in the USA. They are manufactured in Asia. Maybe some accessories are from USA. So, you might have a local distributor, preferably a mom & pop shop; but it’s not like buying locally grown food.
Also, I recommend going 64-bit all the way–OS and hardware. Everything is moving to that direction, and so will all of your favourite plug-ins sooner rather than later. If you hang on to PCs for 10 years, 32-bit will only be in museums by 2022.
Exactly! Couldn’t agree more with all your points. But specially on this one: I’ve always been very satisfied with HP. Used to have a large HP Linux-cluster and their support worked like a charm. Spent some sleeples nights with that system, but it was due to f*cked off GFS implementation of LiSUX.
You could always try building your own machine if you’d like to give it a shot. Custom PC assembly is definitely a rewarding experience (as long as your CPU heat sink isn’t a cheese grater, ouch). Newegg and TigerDirect are both good places to shop for computer components (in my experience).
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