Found the problem - it’s just me - seems I was 100% certain I could change the tempo while it was playing. Not so. Slider appears and changes just fine provided it is not playing when you try to change it.
I cannot get my tempo slider to appear. I have used it in the past so it was working previously.
Generally, you should set the tempo with tempo marks in the score.
The slider is only for fixed tempo mode, which is an optional mode for playing the score without any tempo changes, e.g. if you want to play something slowly to check for errors.